Introduction
Glorious Alpine scenery, monumental Habsburg architecture and the world’s
favourite musical – Austria’s tourist industry certainly plays up to the clichés.
However, it’s not all bewigged Mozart ensembles and schnitzel; modern
Austria boasts some of Europe’s most varied museums and contemporary
architecture, not to mention attractive and sophisticated cities whose bars,
cafés and clubs combine contemporary cool with elegant tradition.
Long the powerhouse of the Habsburg
Empire, Austria underwent decades of
change and uncertainty in the early
twentieth century. Shorn of her empire
and racked by economic difficulties, the
state fell prey to the promises of Nazi
Germany. Only with the end of the Cold
War did Austria return to the heart of
Europe, joining the EU in 1995.
Politics aside, Austria is primarily known
for two contrasting attractions – the
fading imperial glories of the capital, and
the stunning beauty of its Alpine
hinterland. Vienna is the gateway to much
of central Europe and a good place to
soak up the culture of Mitteleuropa. Less
renowned provincial capitals such as Graz
and Linz are surprising pockets of culture,
innovation and vitality. Salzburg, between
Innsbruck and Vienna, represents urban
Austria at its most picturesque, an
intoxicating Baroque city within easy
striking distance of the mountains and
lakes of the Salzkammergut, while the
most dramatic of Austria’s Alpine scenery
is west of here, in and around Tyrol,
whose capital, Innsbruck, provides the
best base for exploration.
GETTING AROUND
Austria’s public transport is fast, efficient
and comprehensive. ÖBB (Woebb.at;
website includes an excellent Englishlanguage
journey planner) runs a
punctual train network, which includes
most towns of any size. All stations in
cities and larger towns have left-luggage
lockers. An Austria one-country pass
with Eurail starts at €79 (3 days validity
in 1 month; under-25s), though it’s
worth checking individual train
prices, which can work out cheaper.
Buses (Wpostbus.at) serve remoter
villages and Alpine valleys; fares are
around €10 per 100km. Daily and
weekly regional travelcards (Netzkarte),
covering both trains and buses, are
available in many regions.
Austria is bike-friendly, with cycle lanes
in all major towns. Many train stations
rent bikes for around €15 per day.
ACCOMMODATION
Outside popular tourist spots such as
Vienna and Salzburg, accommodation
need not be too expensive. Good-value B&B is usually available in the many small
family-run hotels known as Gasthöfe and
Gasthaüser, with prices from €60 per
double. In the larger towns and cities a
pension or Frühstuckspension will offer
similar prices. Most places also have a
stock of private rooms or Privatzimmer,
although in well-travelled rural areas,
roadside signs offering Zimmer Frei
(or vacancies) are common (double room
€35–50). Local tourist offices will have
lists of these and will often ring around
and book something for you.
There are around a hundred HI hostels
(Jugendherberge or Jugendgästehaus), run
by or affiliated to ÖJHV (Woejhv.or.at)
or the ÖJHW (Woejhw.or.at). Rates are
€20–26, normally including breakfast
(€1–2 extra for non-members). There are
also some excellent independent hostels
in Salzburg and Vienna, plus affiliated
youth hotel chains.
Austria’s numerous campsites often
have laundry facilities, shops and snack
bars. Most open May to September,
although some open year-round.
CULTURE AND ETIQUETTE
Austrian culture and etiquette is much
like the rest of Western Europe, with
leisurely café culture a central fixture. In
restaurants, bars and cafés modest tipping
– around ten percent or rounding up to
the nearest euro – is expected (pay the
waiter or waitress directly).
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
With stunning mountain scenery and
beautiful lakes, Austria is an ideal
destination for all sorts of outdoor sports.
Skiing and snowboarding are major
national pastimes (see box, p.86) and
hiking and biking trails are clearly marked
and graded. Tourist offices will usually
have a surfeit of details on local route
0 Comments