the rough guide to Albania

Introduction

Tell your friends or family that you’re off to Albania, and you’ll likely receive a stock response: “Isn’t it dangerous?”, “Isn’t there a war going on there?”, and “Is that even in Europe?” are some of the most common. Speak instead to those who have been, and the associations with the country’s name become infinitely more positive – you’ll hear of rippling mountains, Ottoman architecture, pristine beaches and endlessly hospitable locals. Following decades of isolationist rule, this rugged land still doesn’t seem to fit into the grand continental jigsaw, with distinctly exotic notes emanating from its language, customs and cuisine. Pay a visit to this beguiling corner of Europe now, before it garners the popularity it deserves.

Most travellers make a beeline for the capital, Tirana, a buzzing city with a mishmash of garishly painted buildings, traditional restaurants and trendy bars. However, those seeking to take Albania’s true pulse should head to the mountainous hinterlands, particularly the peaceable hillside towns of Berat and Gjirokastra – both essentially open-air museums of life in Ottoman times. The muscular, snowcapped peaks of the interior drop down to a series of immaculate beaches, most notably along the Ionian coastline in the south of the country, one of the Mediterranean’s most remote and least developed stretches.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE

It’s getting ever easier to fly into Albania, with the number of international connections increasing every year. Local low-cost carrier Belle Air (Wbelleair.it) flies to Tirana’s Mother Teresa airport (Wtirana-airport.com) from several Italian cities, as well as London, Athens and Vienna. Direct British Airways flights from London can be quite reasonable, while in warmer months you can fly cheaply to Corfu then get a ferry to Saranda (see p.59). Visas are not required for citizens of most nations; South Africa is a notable exception. Greece offers by far the simplest international bus connections – there are daily services to Tirana from both Athens and Thessaloniki (from €25), and it’s also possible to get direct buses to a number of other Albanian cities. From Macedonia there are direct services from Tetovo (west of Skopje) to Tirana, via Struga and Elbasan. It is still not straightforward to get here from Montenegro – there are no services at all from the capital Podgorica, though there are a couple of daily buses, and some unofficial minivans, linking Shkodra and Ulcinj. The most interesting form of arrival is by ferry. Several operators make overnight sailings to Durrës from Bari in Italy, including Ventouris Ferries (Wventouris.gr; from €56); it’s also possible to get to Saranda by ferry from Corfu (Wionian-cruises.com; from €19), with at least two ferries per day making the thirty-minute hop.

GETTING AROUND

Getting from A to B is a little tricky in Albania – you’re advised to be flexible, exercise patience, and to treat travel information as a guideline rather than gospel. Most travel is conducted by bus; the vehicles are usually Italian dinosaurs but fares are cheap, and the roads are continually being improved. However, the authorities have steadfastly refused to build any bus stations – fine in smaller towns, but a nightmare in a city as large as Tirana where matters are utterly confusing. Buses are supplemented by minibuses known as furgons, which are more numerous but run to no fixed schedule; with no obligation to depart until full, drivers tend to roam around town until they have the required number of passengers, and they make a habit of overcharging foreigners. Albania also boasts a limited, ageing train network. The main line runs from Tirana to Vlora, via Durrës, while there’s also a route heading north to Shkodra. InterRail passes are not valid in Albania, and would be pretty pointless in any case.

ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation is surprisingly plentiful for a country with such low tourist numbers, and while state-owned monstrosities were once the norm, arecent building boom has unleashed a whole generation of clean, good-value hotels. You should be able to find a double room for under €25 (prices are almost always quoted in euros), and breakfast is usually included. There don’t tend to be any set rates for single rooms, but you can expect a small discount from the regular rate. During summer, private rooms come into play at beach resorts, and there are now hostels in Tirana, Saranda and Berat, charging €10–14 for dorm beds; all have free wi-fi. There are almost no dedicated campsites, though the secluded beaches of the Ionian coast are great for those who can manage without facilities. Wild camping is fine in theory, but leaves you at the mercy of the (occasionally corrupt) local police.